The ascot tie: a complete guide to the most distinguished neckwear a man can wear

There are accessories that follow fashion, and there are accessories that predate it. The ascot tie belongs unambiguously to the second category. Named after the Royal Ascot racecourse in Berkshire, where it became the expected neckwear for the formal enclosure in the eighteenth century, the ascot is a wide, flat-bladed neckpiece traditionally made from silk, worn either formally with a morning suit or casually draped beneath an open collar. It is softer than a necktie, broader than a cravat, and more intentional than a scarf; a piece that signals a man who has moved beyond the conventions of business dress and into something more considered.

Today, after decades of relative quietude, the ascot tie is experiencing a genuine renaissance. Driven by a renewed appetite for pre-war elegance, Mediterranean style, and neckwear that does not require a boardroom to justify its existence, the silk ascot has reclaimed its place among the most refined accessories in a man's wardrobe. For those of us steeped in the history of neckwear in Como, this revival feels less like a trend and more like a homecoming.

History of the ascot

The ascot's origins are inseparable from the racecourse that gave it its name. Royal Ascot was founded in 1711 by Queen Anne, who recognised the potential of the heath near Windsor Castle as a racing ground. Over the following century, attendance at Ascot became synonymous with the highest standards of dress, and by the Victorian era, the formal enclosure demanded morning dress, including the wide, elegantly knotted neckpiece that would come to bear the racecourse's name.

The early ascot was a formal affair: wide silk, knotted once and secured with a decorative pin, worn exclusively with a morning coat and waistcoat. It was the neckwear of state occasions, royal weddings, and the kind of garden parties where invitations were issued on embossed card. Throughout the nineteenth century, the ascot held a position of unquestioned authority in men's dress, the neckwear equivalent of the top hat.

The twentieth century brought change. As the modern necktie consolidated its dominance in business and formal dress, the ascot retreated to its ceremonial strongholds: Royal Ascot itself, morning weddings, and the wardrobes of a certain kind of gentleman who refused to let elegance be dictated by convenience. In cinema, the ascot became a signifier of effortless sophistication. Fred Astaire wore one with the ease of a man putting on a wristwatch. Roger Moore's Bond favoured it in moments of off-duty elegance. The ascot communicated something that the four-in-hand knot could not: that the wearer dressed for himself, not for an office.

In the Mediterranean world, along the Italian and French Rivieras, on the shores of Lake Como, the ascot never truly disappeared. It remained part of the vocabulary of men who understood that warm weather demanded neckwear with movement, with softness, with the fluid drape that only fine silk can provide. It is from this lacustrine tradition that the modern silk ascot draws its most compelling expression.

Ascot vs cravat vs necktie: understanding the differences

The terminology surrounding formal neckwear is frequently muddled. The words ascot, cravat, and necktie are sometimes used interchangeably, but each refers to a distinct garment with its own construction, history, and appropriate context.

The key distinction is this: the modern ascot is typically worn tucked inside an open-collared shirt, with the wide central portion creating a soft, puffed effect at the chest. The traditional cravat is the broader historical term; the ascot is, technically, a variety of cravat. In contemporary usage, the two have diverged. When a modern menswear guide refers to a cravat, it generally means either a historical neckpiece or the casual day cravat, which is functionally identical to what many call a casual ascot.

The necktie, by contrast, is the workhorse of modern men's neckwear: narrower, longer, knotted tightly at the throat, and worn with the shirt buttoned to the collar. It is indispensable for business dress but lacks the relaxed elegance that makes the ascot so suited to occasions where formality is expected but rigidity is not.

For a deeper exploration of how neckwear evolved from the Croatian cravate to the modern silk tie, our guide on the history of neckwear in Como traces the full journey.

Types of ascot ties

Not all ascots serve the same purpose. The category divides naturally into three distinct types, each suited to different occasions and levels of formality.

The formal ascot (morning dress)

The formal ascot is the original: a wide silk neckpiece worn with a morning coat, waistcoat, and wing-collar or turndown-collar shirt. It is knotted once in a simple overhand knot, puffed to create volume at the chest, and secured with a decorative pin, typically a pearl or simple gold stickpin. This is the ascot of Royal Ascot, of morning weddings, and of any occasion where the dress code specifies morning dress.

The formal ascot demands restrained colours and patterns. Silver-grey, pale gold, champagne, and lavender are traditional choices. The fabric is almost always silk, specifically, a medium-weight silk with enough body to hold the puff without collapsing.

The casual ascot (day cravat)

The casual ascot, sometimes called the day cravat, is the version most men will encounter and wear. It is tucked into an open-collared shirt, creating a soft drape of silk at the chest that fills the space left by the absent necktie. No pin is required. The effect is one of considered nonchalance: dressed without being overdressed, polished without being stiff.

This is the ascot of the Italian Riviera, of terrace lunches overlooking the lake, of Saturday afternoons at country houses. It works with blazers, with linen suits, with sport coats over open-collared shirts. It is, in many ways, the most versatile and wearable form of the ascot tie.

The modern silk ascot

The finest contemporary ascots are crafted from the same exceptional silks that define the best neckties. The fabric is where quality reveals itself most clearly: a silk ascot made from Como silk, woven on jacquard looms in the workshops that have defined European silk production for centuries, drapes differently, catches light differently, and ages differently from mass-produced alternatives.

Key fabrics include:

• Silk twill, the classic choice, offering a smooth surface with a subtle diagonal texture and a clean drape
• Jacquard silk, woven with intricate self-patterns (paisleys, medallions, geometric repeats) that add visual depth without printed colour
• Printed silk, allowing for bolder patterns and colour combinations, from classic foulard motifs to contemporary abstracts
• Como silk, the benchmark for quality, dyed and finished in the lake district using methods refined over generations

The distinction between ordinary silk and Como silk is not merely geographical; it is qualitative. The waters of Lake Como, the specific finishing techniques passed down through lacustrine workshops, and the density of weaving expertise concentrated in a few square kilometres produce a silk with a hand, a lustre, and a durability that industrial production cannot replicate. For a fuller understanding of what sets this tradition apart, our article on Como silk heritage explores the subject in detail.

How to tie an ascot

The ascot knot is simpler than most necktie knots, but it rewards care. There are two principal methods: the formal puff style and the casual drape.

Formal ascot knot (puff style with pin)

This method is used with morning dress and formal daywear. The goal is a symmetrical, voluminous puff at the centre of the chest, secured with a pin.

1. Drape the ascot around your neck, beneath the shirt collar, with both ends hanging down your chest. One end should hang approximately 5 cm lower than the other
2. Cross the longer end over the shorter end, just below the throat
3. Bring the longer end up and through the loop between the ascot and your neck, from behind
4. Pull it down gently to tighten the knot. It should sit snugly but not tightly at the base of the throat
5. Arrange both layers of silk so they lie flat against your chest, with the top layer centred and puffed slightly
6. Use your fingers to adjust the puff. It should have volume without looking inflated. The aim is a soft, rounded shape, not a balloon
7. Insert an ascot pin horizontally through both layers of silk, approximately at the centre of the puff. The pin secures the arrangement and prevents shifting
8. Button your waistcoat over the lower portion of the ascot, leaving the puff and pin visible above

Casual drape style (tucked into open collar)

This method is for smart-casual wear: blazers, sport coats, and open-collared shirts. No pin is required.

1. Start with your shirt collar open, at minimum the top button, ideally the top two buttons. A spread collar or cutaway collar works best
2. Drape the ascot around your neck so that both ends hang evenly down your chest
3. Cross the right end over the left
4. Bring the right end up through the loop at your throat, exactly as you would the first step of tying a shoelace
5. Gently pull both ends to tighten. The knot should rest just below the hollow of the throat, hidden by the shirt collar
6. Arrange both ends so they lie flat against your chest, with one layer on top of the other
7. Tuck both ends neatly into your shirt, spreading the silk so it fills the open collar evenly. The visible portion should be a smooth, flat spread of silk framed by the shirt collar

Shirts that work with an ascot

Not every shirt collar accommodates an ascot. The best options are:

• Spread collar, the ideal choice; the wide collar points frame the ascot beautifully
• Cutaway collar, even more open than a spread, allowing maximum visibility of the silk
• Camp collar, for the most relaxed settings; the open, flat collar creates a distinctly Mediterranean feel
• Button-down collar, less traditional but workable for very casual settings
• Wing collar, for formal morning dress only, paired with the puffed ascot and pin

Avoid point collars and narrow collars, which leave insufficient space for the ascot to drape properly.

When to wear an ascot

The ascot occupies a specific and rather enviable position in the dress code spectrum. It is appropriate where a necktie would be too corporate and no neckwear at all would be too bare.

Morning weddings and formal daytime events

The formal ascot's natural habitat. Morning weddings, christenings, Royal Ascot, and formal garden parties all call for the puffed ascot with pin, worn beneath a waistcoat as part of full morning dress. A silver or champagne silk ascot is the most traditional choice for weddings; richer colours work for race meetings.

Garden parties and summer occasions

The casual ascot excels here. Tucked into an open linen shirt beneath a light blazer, a printed silk ascot adds colour and refinement to warm-weather dress without the constriction of a knotted tie. Think of the long weekends along the Italian lakes, the terrace evenings, the season at Henley, occasions that demand elegance without effort.

Smart casual with a blazer

This is perhaps the ascot's most useful modern role. For dinners, gallery openings, weekend lunches, and any occasion where a blazer is appropriate but a tie would be overdoing it, the casual ascot fills the gap with exactly the right degree of polish. It works particularly well with navy blazers, linen sport coats, and the kind of unstructured Italian tailoring that benefits from a point of visual interest at the chest.

The Mediterranean approach

On the shores of Lake Como, along the Ligurian coast, across the French Riviera, the ascot has never required a formal occasion to justify itself. It is worn as naturally as a pocket square, a mark of a man who pays attention to the details. Paired with a pale linen suit or a cotton sport coat, a silk ascot in a warm paisley or deep navy transforms simple separates into something worthy of the setting. For guidance on pairing neckwear with tailoring in this tradition, our guide to matching ties with suits covers the principles in detail.

When not to wear an ascot

The ascot is not universally appropriate. Avoid wearing one to:

• Business meetings and corporate offices. The ascot reads as too informal or too eccentric for most professional environments. A well-chosen necktie remains the correct option
• Job interviews. First impressions in professional settings call for convention, not flair
• Funerals. Solemnity demands restraint. A dark necktie is the respectful choice
• Black-tie events. The bow tie owns this territory. An ascot at a black-tie dinner is a misstep, however beautifully tied

Styling guide: how to wear an ascot with confidence

With a morning suit (formal)

The classic configuration: grey or black morning coat, matching or contrasting waistcoat, grey striped trousers, and a formal silk ascot in silver, champagne, pale blue, or lavender. The ascot is knotted in the puff style and pinned. The waistcoat covers the lower half of the ascot, framing the puff. This is among the most elegant ensembles in men's dress and permits no shortcuts in execution or fabric quality.

With a blazer and open collar (smart casual)

A navy blazer, a white or pale blue shirt with the collar open, and a silk ascot tucked casually inside. This combination works for restaurant dinners, gallery vernissages, Saturday lunches, and the kind of Mediterranean evening where the sun is still warm and the dress code is unwritten but understood. The ascot should complement but not match the blazer. A burgundy or deep gold against navy is particularly effective.

With a waistcoat (without a jacket)

In warmer weather, a waistcoat worn over a shirt and ascot, without a jacket, creates a look of rakish elegance. The waistcoat frames and anchors the ascot, preventing it from appearing loose or unfinished. Choose a waistcoat in a complementary colour and ensure the ascot's puff sits neatly above the waistcoat's neckline.

Colour choices

The ascot's generous surface area makes colour selection particularly important. The silk is visible in a broad panel at the chest, and the wrong choice will dominate the entire outfit.

• Navy, the safest and most versatile choice; works with virtually every jacket and shirt combination
• Burgundy, rich, warm, and authoritative. Exceptional against navy blazers and grey suits
• Champagne and gold, the classic choice for formal morning dress and warm-weather elegance
• Paisley, the traditional ascot pattern; choose small to medium scale in muted colours for sophistication
• Deep green, a distinguished alternative to navy, particularly in autumn
• Printed silk, foulard motifs, small medallions, and geometric repeats all work beautifully at this scale

For further inspiration on choosing colours in neckwear, our guide on matching ties with suits applies many of the same principles.

Pin or no pin? When to use an ascot pin

The rules here are simple:

• Formal ascot (morning dress). A pin is essential. It secures the puff and is part of the ensemble's architecture. A pearl stickpin or simple gold pin is traditional
• Casual ascot. No pin is needed or expected. The ascot is tucked into the shirt and held in place by the collar and the shirt front
• Optional. Some men choose to wear a small, discreet pin with a casual ascot for additional security or as a decorative touch. This is acceptable but not necessary

Caring for a silk ascot

A silk ascot, like any fine silk neckwear, rewards careful handling with years of service. The principles are the same as those that apply to handcrafted Como silk ties: respect the fabric, and the fabric will age beautifully.

• Storage. Hang the ascot over a hanger or roll it loosely in a drawer. Never fold tightly; silk retains creases
• Wrinkles. If wrinkles develop, hang the ascot in a steamy bathroom for twenty minutes. The moisture relaxes the fibres without the risk of iron damage. If pressing is necessary, use the lowest heat setting with a pressing cloth between the iron and the silk
• Stains. Blot immediately with a clean, dry cloth. Never rub. For persistent stains, professional dry cleaning is the only safe option
• Rotation. Avoid wearing the same ascot on consecutive days. Silk benefits from rest between wearings, allowing the fibres to recover their natural shape
• Avoid. Direct sunlight during storage, contact with perfume or cologne (apply these before dressing), and any contact with water, which can leave permanent marks on silk

Frequently asked questions

What is an ascot tie?

An ascot tie is a wide, formal neckpiece made from silk, worn either as part of morning dress (knotted and pinned beneath a waistcoat) or casually tucked into an open shirt collar. It takes its name from the Royal Ascot racecourse, where it became the standard neckwear for the formal enclosure. The ascot is broader and softer than a standard necktie, creating a distinctive puffed or draped effect at the chest.

How do you tie an ascot properly?

For formal wear, drape the ascot around your neck, cross one end over the other, loop the longer end through and up behind the knot, then arrange the silk into a soft puff and secure with a pin. For casual wear, the process is similar but the ends are tucked into an open shirt collar rather than pinned, and the overall effect is flatter and less structured.

Can you wear an ascot to a wedding?

Yes. The ascot is one of the most appropriate neckwear choices for a morning or daytime wedding. For formal morning weddings, a puffed silk ascot with pin is part of the traditional morning dress ensemble. For less formal daytime weddings, a casual ascot tucked into an open collar under a blazer is an elegant alternative to a necktie. Avoid wearing an ascot to evening or black-tie weddings, where a bow tie is expected.

What is the difference between an ascot and a cravat?

Historically, the ascot is a type of cravat; the term cravat encompasses all neckwear derived from the Croatian neckpieces that became fashionable in seventeenth-century France. In modern usage, however, the words have diverged. An ascot typically refers to the wide, puffed or draped neckpiece worn with formal or smart-casual dress. A cravat, in contemporary British English, often refers to the same garment (the terms are sometimes used interchangeably), while in other contexts it can mean a broader, more historically styled neckpiece.

Are ascots still in style?

Very much so. The ascot has seen a significant revival in recent years, driven by renewed interest in pre-war elegance, Mediterranean dressing, and alternatives to the conventional necktie. It appears regularly in contemporary menswear collections and on the best-dressed men at events from Royal Ascot to Italian Riviera gatherings. The key is choosing quality fabric; a silk ascot from a reputable maker looks timeless, while a cheap imitation looks costume-like.

What fabric is best for an ascot?

Silk is the definitive fabric for an ascot tie. Specifically, a medium-weight silk twill, jacquard silk, or printed silk provides the ideal combination of drape, body, and lustre. The finest ascots are made from Como silk, woven and finished in the lake district workshops that have produced Europe's most distinguished silk textiles for centuries. Avoid synthetic fabrics, which lack the drape and subtle sheen that make a silk ascot so effective. For more on what distinguishes exceptional silk, our exploration of Como silk heritage offers a detailed perspective.

Can you wear an ascot with a regular suit?

It is possible but requires care. An ascot works best with suits worn without a tie, meaning the shirt collar must be open. A standard business suit with a buttoned collar and no ascot space will not accommodate one gracefully. A more relaxed suit, such as unstructured Italian tailoring, a linen suit, or a cotton suit, in combination with a spread-collar shirt worn open is the right context. For structured business suits, a well-chosen necktie from a collection of seven-fold silk ties or grenadine silk ties remains the more appropriate choice.

The ascot and the future of Como silk neckwear

While Lorenzi Como's current collection focuses on the finest silk neckties, from the architectural precision of our seven-fold silk ties to the textured depth of our grenadine silk ties, the same artisan techniques and Como silks that define our ties are perfectly suited to the ascot. The jacquard looms, the hand-finishing, the generations of accumulated knowledge in the workshops around the lake: these are not tied to any single form. They are the foundation upon which any expression of fine silk neckwear can be built.

The ascot represents something that resonates deeply with the Lorenzi Como philosophy: neckwear that is worn not out of obligation but out of appreciation. It is a piece for men who dress with intention, who understand that the finest accessories are those that require no occasion to justify themselves, only the discernment to wear them well.

Explore our collections of handcrafted Como silk ties and discover the silk tradition that has defined neckwear excellence on the shores of Lake Como for generations.

FAQ

When do you wear an ascot tie?

An ascot tie is traditionally worn with morning dress at formal daytime events such as weddings, horse races, and garden parties. It can also be worn casually tucked into an open-collar shirt for a relaxed yet distinguished look.

How do you tie an ascot?

Drape the ascot around your neck with one end slightly longer. Cross the longer end over the shorter, wrap it around and through the loop at your neck, then fan out the front. Secure with a tie pin if desired.

What is the difference between an ascot and a cravat?

The terms are often used interchangeably, but traditionally an ascot is wider and worn formally with a wing collar, while a cravat is a broader category that includes any decorative neckcloth. Today, both refer to the same wide, folded silk neckpiece.

Read also

• The art of jacquard silk tie patterns: a guide to refined style
• The paisley tie: a gentleman's guide to wearing silk's most storied pattern
• The burgundy tie: a connoisseur's guide to neckwear's most commanding colour

Discover our selection

• sky blue silk satin ascot tie
• white and blue silk satin ascot tie
• navy silk satin ascot tie with micro-dot